Showing posts with label vintage coats. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vintage coats. Show all posts

March 02, 2012

Rise & Fall Of A Fashion Empire

I chanced upon a gentleman the other day who happened to say something that rang in my ears:

His father was once the largest manufacturer of ladies' coats and suits in America.

While he mentioned it in passing, I had to describe to him my keen interest and my background in vintage clothing which spurred the subsequent questions.

I learned that his father was a clothing salesman who founded Burstein & Company, and this developed into a partnership called Myron Lewis - Myron being a twist on his father's name (Mickey), and Lewis was Mickey's brother. The two worked as a team, with Mickey heading sales and Lewis managing the factory where the garments were produced. The company began post-World War II and existed until the mid-1960s, when the business was sold to Handmacher Fashions. Later on, Handmacher merged with Jonathan Logan.

A 1949 advertisement of Handmacher's more casual Weathervane line of suits, created about the same time Myron Lewis began.

I listened with excitement as he described how his parents would travel to France, purchase examples of the latest Parisian couture, and bring the clothes home to the business. Mickey would "give it to the cutter", meaning that his patternmaker would take the garment and copy it line for line. He'd then create the same item in a moderate price range to make the mode accessible to the masses.

The fashion history embedded in these anecdotes thrilled me, but for this businessman they were simply lines from his father's resume. No trace of the business remains in the family except these stories. When asked about the clothes themselves, the gentleman could relay vaguely that his father did a lot of clothes with big buttons. That was all.

A Handmacher design in 1968. Handmacher purchased Myron Lewis in the mid-1960s.

In his father "there was no great love" for fashion, he told me, just a keen entrepreneurial intent and a wonderful success that developed from that simple desire. Indeed, Mickey Burstein only had to work twenty years thanks to the exponential growth of Myron Lewis. A splendid tale to hear, if only in scant outline, from decades past.

December 18, 2011

Here Today, Gone Tomorrow: Mod Vintage Suede

What was it about suede in the 60s? Some of the best coats & jackets we showcase from this era are butter-soft suede in the most interesting hues. Check out this pink one for example:


And here's a very similar look with a Pop vibe thanks to its very different hue:


Check our site for more vintage suede outerwear and get your Mod on! What's here at Vintage Vixen today is gone tomorrow, shipping to vintage-loving Vixens all over the world.

October 16, 2011

The Vintage Leather Coat Conundrum

“Long hair minimizes the need for barbers; socks can be done without;

one leather jacket solves the coat problem for many years; suspenders are superfluous.”

-Albert EinsteinSolve your coat problem and other chilly dilemmas
with our recent update of vintage coats & sweaters!


April 27, 2011

Vintage Lilli Ann Suits


One of the best American-made vintage suits labels is Lilli Ann, well-known for suits and coats from the late 1940s & 1950s. They were based in San Francisco but the Lilli Ann look is decidedly Parisian. Here's a bit of Lilli Ann eye candy for you!


Vintage clothing collectors seek out these wasp-waisted suits not only for their hourglass silhouettes, but also the luxury fabrics often labeled "loomed in Paris" or similar. They always have impeccable tailoring and extra details like the balloon peplum seen at left, which was a New Look motif carried into the 1950s. Especially elegant is the suit with ruched torso in middle view; because it's a lighter color, it's less likely to be found in wearable condition. We recently sold the exact suit seen at right, in three tones of latte brown.

This trio is equally posh, with unusual features. The suit at left is unique to see from Lilli Ann because its silhouette is sheath-like, rather than hourglass or a swing silhouette. That nipped-waist coat in the center's a fantastic silhouette, rarely found in the vintage clothing world. And the charming bow-accented suit at right has a rather girlish motif for business wear, in all French materials.

In the 1960s, Lilli Ann's looks turned a corner to keep up with the streamlined direction fashion was heading. Their new slogan "The world is yours" hoped to capture modern women's expanding horizons while dressing them as well as in the past. The company chose bolder colors, sleeker lines and eventually more obvious synthetics (like polyester and Ultra-Suede) as the 1970s approached.

Our website nearly always has a Lilli Ann gem or two available, and we're lucky to turn up more & more.

Sources from top left:
  • balloon peplum suit in French fabric called "starlight worsted", originally $110, Harper's Bazaar, April 1953
  • pale evening suit in French fabric, originally $100, Vogue, April 1953
  • vintage sharkskin suit in British fabric, originally about $90, Harper's Bazaar, September 1954
  • sheath-jacketed suit in French fabric woven in Normandy, originally $100, Harper's Bazaar, January 1953
  • wasp-waisted coat in "finest boucle` twist", originally $110, Harper's Bazaar, May 1953
  • bow-motif suit of French wool & mohair with Paris-made appliques, originally $100, Vogue, September 1953
  • turquoise fur-collared suit, Harper's Bazaar, September 1962
  • tweed coat in two versions, Harper's Bazaar, September 1965
  • sacque coat with fur collar, Harper's Bazaar, September 1963