The blog at VintageVixen.com, where we sell vintage clothing & accessories. Join us in our love of all things vintage!
December 29, 2011
In Memoriam: David Evins, Shoe Designer
Twenty years ago today shoe designer David Evins passed. He designed exquisite shoes for celebrities like Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland and Ava Gardner.He dressed the feet of every First Lady from Mamie Eisenhower to Nancy Reagan.
This elegant example of Evins' style is a classic 1950s snake skin stiletto, each scale tipped in gold. Evins gained popularity among wealthy stars by focusing on comfort and lightening the weight of shoes during the 1940s, while creating beautiful designs in high-quality materials.
Ask The Vixen: Antique Dress Display
Q: I recently received a dress that belonged to my great-great-great grandmother. I would like to know the safest ways to display or store these items. I was thinking of having it put into a large frame. What do you think would be best?
A: To display the dress, you could have it framed with two caveats - first, make sure there's only indirect light (at most) if it's going to be displayed every day. Light destroys fabric over time, by weakening it as well as fading it. Second, make sure the frame is not airtight, and that you can gain access to the dress fairly easily if need be. Natural fibers need to expand and contract with changing temps, so airtightness is bad.
On the other hand, pests can travel into a frame that's not airtight, so it's helpful if you can "evacuate" the dress should it ever attract pests. If it's clean of body oils & other residues it should not be a particular attraction to pests; silk & wool are more predisposed to pest damage than cotton or linen, but with an occasional visual inspection you should be fine.
Additionally, you should affix the dress to an acid-free backing by hand-tacking it with unbleached cotton thread. Distribute the weight of the dress by having a strategy for spacing the sewing before you begin.
A: To display the dress, you could have it framed with two caveats - first, make sure there's only indirect light (at most) if it's going to be displayed every day. Light destroys fabric over time, by weakening it as well as fading it. Second, make sure the frame is not airtight, and that you can gain access to the dress fairly easily if need be. Natural fibers need to expand and contract with changing temps, so airtightness is bad.
On the other hand, pests can travel into a frame that's not airtight, so it's helpful if you can "evacuate" the dress should it ever attract pests. If it's clean of body oils & other residues it should not be a particular attraction to pests; silk & wool are more predisposed to pest damage than cotton or linen, but with an occasional visual inspection you should be fine.
Additionally, you should affix the dress to an acid-free backing by hand-tacking it with unbleached cotton thread. Distribute the weight of the dress by having a strategy for spacing the sewing before you begin.
Ask The Vixen: Preserving Vintage Wedding Gowns
Q: I recently acquired my grandmother's wedding gown and head piece. It's in ok condition, there are a few holes through out but that is all. It is over 50 years old and made of silk. I was wondering if you had any suggestions as to how I can store it properly to keep it from being damaged any further.
A: You wrote us with interest in preserving your grandmother's silk wedding gown and veil. The first thing to do in preparation for long-term storage is to clean the gown. A dry cleaner who is experienced with antique and vintage clothing would be ideal; some who advertise "wedding gown preservation" may be good, but others may not be especially well-educated in the area. J. Scheer and similar companies are renown for their expertise, though this high quality has a corresponding cost.
After it has been cleaned, handle the pieces with clean dry hands, or ideally, with plain white cotton gloves on. Buy a small amount of acid free tissue, enough to pack the gown inside to give it some amount of shape. Usually we pack the bodice and sleeves and roll the skirt and train gently up into a sleeping-bag type roll. Rolling avoids unnecessary creases.
The headpiece should be packed to maintain its shape and the veil rolled similarly. Get a large cardboard box (or even better, an acid-free box) and line its bottom and sides with acid free tissue, and place the gown in first with the veil above it. Make sure the box is large enough that it won't be crushed when closed. The box should not be air tight, because natural clothing fiber like silk has to "breathe" (i.e. expand and contract) with changes in temperature and humidity. Do check on the box after you've stowed it away, every 3 to 4 months. I hope this helps!
A: You wrote us with interest in preserving your grandmother's silk wedding gown and veil. The first thing to do in preparation for long-term storage is to clean the gown. A dry cleaner who is experienced with antique and vintage clothing would be ideal; some who advertise "wedding gown preservation" may be good, but others may not be especially well-educated in the area. J. Scheer and similar companies are renown for their expertise, though this high quality has a corresponding cost.
After it has been cleaned, handle the pieces with clean dry hands, or ideally, with plain white cotton gloves on. Buy a small amount of acid free tissue, enough to pack the gown inside to give it some amount of shape. Usually we pack the bodice and sleeves and roll the skirt and train gently up into a sleeping-bag type roll. Rolling avoids unnecessary creases.
The headpiece should be packed to maintain its shape and the veil rolled similarly. Get a large cardboard box (or even better, an acid-free box) and line its bottom and sides with acid free tissue, and place the gown in first with the veil above it. Make sure the box is large enough that it won't be crushed when closed. The box should not be air tight, because natural clothing fiber like silk has to "breathe" (i.e. expand and contract) with changes in temperature and humidity. Do check on the box after you've stowed it away, every 3 to 4 months. I hope this helps!
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