April 11, 2017

Mother & Daughter 50s Swimsuits

Back in the 50s, the mother-daughter matching fad was in full swing... but who knew it was this easy to create the look?  Woman's Day showcased a number of real swimsuits that you can make from simple shapes for ladies and their cute kiddos. 



Many of these looks are sarong style swimsuits, meant to fit and feel almost like a sun dress, and would have been made from woven cotton (without any stretch).  Stretch cotton blends were in their infancy in the 1950s.  Stretch cotton fabrics first showed up in sportswear, but not until later in the decade.




The easy-to-sew trend was a winner back in 1953, as evidenced by these adorable photos.  Here's a one-piece halter suit with skirt style wrap made from four simple pattern pieces (shown above) that can be printed and enlarged to fit your dimensions, or your daughter's.



Next, an all-white 1950s bikini made of Everglaze crinkle cotton.  The pattern pieces are slightly altered triangles in a diaper-wrap made popular by Claire McCardell in the 50s.  The word "diaper" mentioned here has nothing to do with babies, but refers to the overlapped design of the bottoms.


On this set, the one-piece design has been cutaway into a two-piece bikini style.  These pattern pieces are almost modular in this sense... definitely inspired by tiki styles from Polynesia.

And here's another look borrowed from Claire McCardell, including a bandeau bra top and simplistic shorts, gathered and tied at the sides.  Both the design and the chartreuse color of this bikini is classic to 1953.



And oh-my-goodness, cuteness galore in these wee swimsuits for the little ones.  The bandana print is actually made of two Western style scarves, seamed once and tied halter-style at the neck.  Ready for some sun & fun!


September 08, 2016

Queen For A Day: Vintage Tiaras

Can't find a vintage tiara that suits you?  Here are four (with directions on how to make them) courtesy of Woman's Day Magazine circa 1953.

 




Sequined Tiara
 
Materials: 1 yard of 5/8" pale-green grosgrain ribbon; about 12 dozen pastel-colored sequins; milliner's plastic bicycle clip; 1 spool bead wire: household cement.

Twist wire to make about 20 twigs with three "branches" and one "stem", each 1 1/2" long in total; twist wire to make 15 twigs, each 2" long and with 4 side branches.  Leave loop for sequins at end of each branch.  Wrap bicycle clip with ribbon, catching stem of 1 wire twig with each twist of ribbon.  Bend end of wire around clip.  Use the larger twigs across center.  Tack ribbon at each end of clip.  Cement a sequin to each loop on twigs.



Silver-Braid Tiara
 
Materials: 14" of 1-inch silver braid; about 2 dozen blue stones; about 2 dozen rhinestones, cement-on kind; 14' of millinery wire; 2 small side combs; 4" of round elastic; household cement.

Join ends of millinery wire, making 13" circle.  Sew ends of braid together to form 13" circle.  Whip to wire base.  Spacing evenly, cement stones around tiara.  Center 2" of elastic along top of each comb; sew in place, and tack ends to inside of tiara, one comb on each side.



Felt Tiara
 
Materials: 2" x 13" piece of white felt; 14" of red velvet cording; 14" of millinery wire; 24" of bead wire; about 300 seed pearls; white cotton thread; 11 rhinestones, cement-on kind; 2 small side combs; 4" of round elastic; household cement.

Cut felt in shape of crown, making 11 points and graduating them from 1" high at center back to 2" high at center front.  Measure bead wire to fit along pointed edge of felt; add 2".  Whip in place.  String pearls on bead wire; twist ends of wire together.  Cement rhinestones 3/4" below center of each point.  String 10 pearls on white cotton thread; knot ends together to form a circle, and tack circle around a rhinestone.  Repeat.  Run millinery wire through velvet cording; join ends to form 13" circle; whip to base of crown.  Center 2" of elastic along top of each comb; sew in place, and tack ends to inside of tiara, one comb on each side.



Rhinestone Tiara
 
Materials: 1 yard of 5/8" black grosgrain ribbon; about 12 dozen rhinestones, cement-on kind; milliner's plastic bicycle clip; 1 spool bead wire; household cement.

Follow directions as above for Sequined Tiara.

April 22, 2016

Shirtwaist Deja Vu


 What comes around goes around... have a look at this Serbin shirtwaist dress in striped cotton chambray, made in the late 50s with a fantastic spiderweb style design.


 

And here it is again!  This time it's a 1980s version, nearly a line for line copy in synthetic knit from J.J. Dean of California.  

Designers have always borrowed from the past, and they still do.  Our huge vintage clothing collection is a treasure trove for inspiration!

September 10, 2015

Then & Now: National Shirt Shops



 National Shirt Shops was a men's retailer that began as a line of shirts in 1911 and expanded to a full-scale storefront with many locations nationwide by the 1940s.  In Florida alone, there were nine National Shirt Shop locations.  The photo above shows their storefront in a Kentucky downtown area in 1948.


That black & white photo belies the colors that collectors seek today from the National Shirt Shop line.  This vivid tropical print rayon shirt is typical of their label's brilliant hues, meant for summer weekends of carefree style.


National Shirt Shops appeared to have a heyday in post-World War II years, benefiting from the popularity of Hawaiian shirts at the time and the prosperity of post-war America. As their slogan says, they literally spanned the country "Coast to Coast"!


This 1940s Hawaiian style shirt is currently available as of the time of posting.  Write us if you're always seeking them, and we'd be glad to hunt them out for you.

Sources: http://digital.library.louisville.edu/cdm/ref/collection/royal/id/5769
https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=950&dat=19491104&id=iwBQAAAAIBAJ&sjid=h1UDAAAAIBAJ&pg=5363,6021645&hl=en

September 09, 2015

Before & After: Something's Buggy

We handle a lot of old clothes... stuff that's been sitting for decades, usually in the most out-of-the-way places like attics, basements, the sparest of spare closets.  We've even pulled bundles of clothes from barns, trash heaps, and abandoned houses (with permission, of course).  Those kinds of places tend to be the worst for textiles. 


 Fabric absorbs just about any liquid it touches, and when combined with decades of heat, cold, humidity and such, the resulting stains can be brutal.

 

So when we got to this hand-painted vintage shirt, the damage on it looked pretty rough.  It's a fifty-year-old fabric that'd been sitting in the attic of a Victorian home for most of that time.  A fabulous find, but not with these stains all over.  And the paint was worrisome, as some cleaning solvents would wreck this beautiful work.


 The issues were widespread - and like most vintage clothing, it's hard to tell exactly what created those stains in the first place.  Knowing that key bit of info could unlock the door to removing its stains much more easily and quickly, but with old clothes, it's sometimes impossible.


So instead, we read the tea leaves, so to speak.  The cross-hatching seen below shows that there's an oil base to these stains.  That's an important clue.  Dappled tan marks like this often mean air pollution, but the placement of these suggested that it was pest damage.  Ewww... but not a problem once we mask up and put the gloves on.



The work takes days, sometimes weeks.  The soaks are many, and the chemicals can range from something as simple as water to concoctions that are temperature and time-dependent.  We danced the dance with the little buggers...


And voila!   Several days later, a freshly cleaned shirt is unveiled.


The mottled beige marks and cross-hatched areas were gone, after a series of four or five different soaks and careful scrubbing to the fabric.  This is an acetate material, known to be particularly susceptible to abrasion, so the manual cleaning had to be especially gentle and slow.


The only hint of a remaining stain is an extremely faint yellowish cast that cannot be visually perceived when worn or on camera, though if the fabric were scrupulously inspected and compared from one area to the next, a very keen eye could pick it up.  All in all, a nice solution to a pest of a problem.


Always feels good to get the bugs out! 


This shirt's a modern size 12 and listed in our Etsy shop.

September 02, 2015

Little Known Labels: Sebastian Knits

A lady called us up awhile back to sell vintage clothing to us, and one of the labels she'd uncovered was Sebastian.  Oh, Sebastian!  To her it was a delight.  To us, it was hitherto unknown.




It took a trip over and a dig through the old clothes to see what Sebastian was - and is.  Of the many knitwear labels available in the 1960s, Sebastian is pure wool, great quality, and impeccably Italian.  The Cadillac label is comparable, as well as Promenade and some of the better Butte Knits.





1960s Sebastian Knit Suit


But Sebastian stands proud as bolder, brighter, and unabashedly head-turning.  High-contrast colors and large-scale patterning is prominent.  Sebastian strove for an ensemble effect, and the head-to-toe look is (and was) of-the-moment.  Quality is obvious, in thick, soft knits with price tags to match. The ensemble above was marked $185.00 in the mid-1960s - over $1350 in modern-day dollars.






There's little known about the history of this label, except that the California-based company specialized in pure wool fashions - and only pure wool - since 1947.  They made only knitted dresses, separates and coats, and they had a heyday in the 1960s, with the popularity of knitwear in every shape and form from day to evening.

 

The last mention of Sebastian's existence was in 1983 to announce the company's closing.  Though most of the company's history is not yet uncovered, one thing is clear - they made top quality clothes and they didn't cut corners.  That's reason enough to know this label as a stellar example of 60s fashion.



Sources:
https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=djft3U1LymYC&dat=19611115&printsec=frontpage&hl=en
https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=Oc-rVwKPngoC&dat=19831025&b_mode=2&hl=en
https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=Aul-kAQHnToC&dat=19671021&b_mode=2&hl=en

November 01, 2014

1946 Vintage Movado Watch Catalog


 

March 1946 Movado watch catalog.  Scroll on
for a terrific array of 1940s vintage Movado watches.

Movado Automatic

 
Solidomatic - Acvatic

Calendograf - Acvatic





Premier Des Premiers Prix- Mouvement Ultra Plat

Mouvement De Forme Ultra Plat - Ultraplan


Ascensions Stratospheriques 1931-1932-1934
Controle Les Observations
Des Professeurs Piccard Et Cosyns

Movado Est Classe En Tete De Liste
Observatoire De Kew 1928-1930
Mouvement Economique Plat



Movado Ermeto - Pullman 8 Jours


Mouvement Economique Plat - Movado Solidograf


Tempograf - Cronacvatic

Dispositif Chronographique Brevete

Pocket Watches




Grand Prix - Avec Felicitations Du Jury - Bruxelles 1910

Movado Remporte Tous Les Premiers Prix
Concours Annuel De Reglage
Observatoire De Neuchatel 1936

Observatoire De Neuchatel 1912

Grand Prix - Barcelone 1929