Ask The Vixen: Shoe History

We get a lot of inquiries that help people date the vintage clothing they collect. Here's a recent question about determining the age of vintage shoes:

Q: Could you tell me when soles became primarily rubber instead of leather?
Thanks in advance for your answer.

A: Thanks for your note. Shoe soles are either rubber, leather or a plastic-like synthetic depending on its intended use and quality, though synthetic soles did become more common in the 1960s. Rubber soles have been in existence for about 150 years, and were often used for waterproof or athletic shoes. Rubber soles were most commonly seen in this century in athletic wear like 1950s & 60s sneakers, though we also see vintage sport shoes with rubber soles from the 1920s & 30s (think Converse high tops). Leather-soled shoes are still made in couture and designer collections (as well as custom orders of handmade shoes) today.

Also be sure to check our vintage shoes buying guide for in-depth info about how to pick the cream of the footwear crop!

Vintage Lilli Ann Suits

One of the best American-made vintage suits labels is Lilli Ann, well-known for suits and coats from the late 1940s & 1950s. They were based in San Francisco but the Lilli Ann look is decidedly Parisian. Here's a bit of Lilli Ann eye candy for you!


Vintage clothing collectors seek out these wasp-waisted suits not only for their hourglass silhouettes, but also the luxury fabrics often labeled "loomed in Paris" or similar. They always have impeccable tailoring and extra details like the balloon peplum seen at left, which was a New Look motif carried into the 1950s. Especially elegant is the suit with ruched torso in middle view; because it's a lighter color, it's less likely to be found in wearable condition. We recently sold the exact suit seen at right, in three tones of latte brown.

This trio is equally posh, with unusual features. The suit at left is unique to see from Lilli Ann because its silhouette is sheath-like, rather than hourglass or a swing silhouette. That nipped-waist coat in the center's a fantastic silhouette, rarely found in the vintage clothing world. And the charming bow-accented suit at right has a rather girlish motif for business wear, in all French materials.

In the 1960s, Lilli Ann's looks turned a corner to keep up with the streamlined direction fashion was heading. Their new slogan "The world is yours" hoped to capture modern women's expanding horizons while dressing them as well as in the past. The company chose bolder colors, sleeker lines and eventually more obvious synthetics (like polyester and Ultra-Suede) as the 1970s approached.

Our website nearly always has a Lilli Ann gem or two available, and we're lucky to turn up more & more.

Sources from top left:

• balloon peplum suit in French fabric called "starlight worsted", originally $110, Harper's Bazaar, April 1953
• pale evening suit in French fabric, originally $100, Vogue, April 1953
• vintage sharkskin suit in British fabric, originally about $90, Harper's Bazaar, September 1954
• sheath-jacketed suit in French fabric woven in Normandy, originally $100, Harper's Bazaar, January 1953
• wasp-waisted coat in "finest boucle` twist", originally $110, Harper's Bazaar, May 1953
• bow-motif suit of French wool & mohair with Paris-made appliques, originally $100, Vogue, September 1953
• turquoise fur-collared suit, Harper's Bazaar, September 1962
• tweed coat in two versions, Harper's Bazaar, September 1965
• sacque coat with fur collar, Harper's Bazaar, September 1963
  

In Fits and Starts

After an enjoyable dress rehearsal of this newly fledged blog, and then a long silence, I'm writing in to let you know I'm still here! Just swamped. We had a family member pass away, and then a dear friend, all within the space of three weeks. In addition, our site's undergoing a complete overhaul, to launch quite soon - as soon as we Vixens can muster.

That being said, the only thing this Vixen would like to do today is pore over old magazines and create a visual treat for you readers. With any luck, I will be doing just that.